Musings

Rainbow morning

Good morning, rainbow.

Wave breaking

Good morning, ocean.

Fisherman

Good morning, fisherman. Best of luck.

Surfer lighthouse

Good morning, surfer and lighthouse.

Tunnels

Good morning, tunnels.

Fishing boat

Good morning, working fishing boat. Hope you’re not tired, hahaha.

Lei stands

Hello, lei stands.

Aloha, loves.

Museum and more

Castle Bishop museum

Castle building, now part of the Bishop Museum complex. Condemned due to termite damage, so closed. Perhaps work has begun to renovate it?

Dukes surfboard

I picked one artifact from this huge museum, of Hawaii, of the Pacific, of life in Polynesia: a wooden Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku surf board. Duke lived from 1890 to 1968 and was a fast swimmer as well as surfer. May his waves ever curl perfectly. Duke was named after his dad, who was named in honor of the Duke of Edinburgh. Duke seems like a perfect surfer name.

Breadfruit

Fascinating garden on the grounds, with coast plants in one area, another zone of highland plants, and a third of canoe plants, that is, the ones the Polynesians brought to feed themselves. They brought food plants, and plants that they grew with the food plants to make mini-ecosystems that worked. These are breadfruit. Polynesians needed nutrients and carbohydrates from plant sources—they got a lot of protein from fish; this dietary situation is similar to what other traditional peoples living by rich coastal waters have had to contend with.

Oahu market

Chinatown. Way cool; and hot/sticky where it wasn’t air-conditioned. Like this market. A few others had AC. I’d try to shop here for fruits/veg at least sometimes if I lived here.

Only good vibes

Loved this sign in the restaurant where we ate: Only Good Vibes, and the two gals playing pattycake while waiting for their food.

Add magic crack

We did not have dessert, so I never found out what magic crack is.

Aloha bldg

Wending our way back to the rental, we went by the Aloha Tower. Majestic. It opened in 1926 and is a lighthouse. After the bombing at Pearl Harbor it was painted to disappear in night-darkness.

Fish wharf rest

This restaurant is gone, but its historic sign has carefully been kept. The restaurant was open over seven decades, if I have it right. The building had degraded and “had to” be demolished.

I’d say building preservationists so far have been more successful with the Castle than the restaurant.

Sacred places

Lagartija pale

We stayed up late (as in: after dark) last night chatting on the lanai/patio. At least three of these little lizards showed up to hunt bugs around one especially bright light. I hadn’t seen these pale ones before. This one has a shortened tail.

Beverages of morning

This morning I felt like I needed fluids. I doubled up with coffee and kombucha. After two portions of each, I felt not-quite-so-dry.

Arizona memorial

Our big expedition was to the Pearl Harbor Memorial. They’ve been fixing the landing dock for over a year, and we could not land, so we motored by, with first one side of our boat facing the memorial and then the other side, as passengers were required to stay seated at all times. The flag pole is attached to an original part of the Arizona‘s mast. The white float far right is above the bow. It was a solemn visit. The 20+-minute video before we boarded the boat was excellent; visitors were instructed not to talk during it and indeed (surprise), people were quiet.

Pacific cemetery punchbowl

Mid-afternoon, the Guru and I entered Puowaina, more commonly known as Punchbowl Crater. More military dead are interred here, in the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific. I believe the current tally of dead exceeds 53K; markers are all flat, which contrasts with Arlington National, for example. We were surprised that the floor of the crater is so high.

Iolani palace

Then, we went to the core of the civic-ceremonial and governmental section of Honolulu. This is the ‘Iolani Palace; construction began in 1879. It replaced an earlier building that dated to the early 1840s (if I have it right), built during the reign of Kamehameha III (born 1814; died 1854; reign 1825–1854). This building dates to the reign of King Kalākaua (born 1836; died 1891; reign 1874–1891). TMI?

IP mound

This fenced area is on the palace grounds; it is a burial mound and super kapu (forbidden—because of its extreme sacredness). The lands around the palace, including other city blocks, was part of a royal sacred area prior to the arrival of foreigners. Behind the fence on the back side, I saw a guy shooting up and that was during an idle glance; that was not something I wanted to see (and have seared into my memory). Elsewhere people were sleeping on sidewalks and on the grass. Homeless problem here, too, in that end-of-the-road way….

Bridges plus

Metal bridge

This bridge crosses the Kaukonahua River, which is dammed to be a reservoir now.

Hawaiian germfask bridge

This bridge crosses the ‘Anahulu River. I think of this as a Hawaiian-style double Germfask Bridge, but there’s no reason that makes sense to anyone else, and anyway the Germfask Bridge I’m thinking of has been replaced with a normal flat bridge with no concrete arches (boring, but ¿progressive?).

Spreading tree

Love the shape of the canopy of this big tree and of the branches….

Natural pair

Rain on rental pool

We now know that periodic short sprinkles or perhaps “real” rain is typical. Multiple times a day.

Rainbow over diamond head

This was our second rainbow of the morning. At 7:45am. There’s another sprinkle right now, maybe the third? so far…. Cycle of weather-life.

Water sport stories, mild

Sharks cove

We snorkeled here in Shark’s Cove. Which lacks sharks. Thankfully. We poked around for about 1hr 15 mins, which for me was quite a while; I wasn’t exhausted when we quit, but I was ready. Much of that time was floating and looking down. By the time we headed in, the waves were kicking up just a tad, and I was glad to paddle assisted by the incoming tide.

White dog surfboard

We watched this dog placidly riding a surfboard for quite a while. “Quite a while” is the time it takes to do all the cleaning required when doing water sports in the ocean, or anything in/on the ocean. Thankfully, all the public parks on the ocean with parking that I have seen have flush toilets and fresh-water showers, so it’s not a struggle, but it does take time. Time to spot and watch a dog on a surfboard enjoying the same places we’d been snorkeling. Since I don’t have corrective lenses I can see shapes and colors, to some degree, so I get a sense of critters. Easiest are the green Hawaiian sea turtles. One even checked me out! I couldn’t keep 30 feet away (I think that’s the stat) like you’re supposed to, but I didn’t touch him/her (G forbid), and didn’t hang around at all, just slowly moved on. With a smile around my snorkel-mouthpiece. Yes, it can be done.

Surfboard pedestrian

Continuing with the surfboard theme, here’s how you get home with one when you live near, but not on the beach.

Big adventure

Bay outward

Adventure clue number one. Salient points: 1) water view, no beach in sight; 2) not a drone shot.

Air tanks

Adventure clue number two.

Scuba underway

Adventure clue number three. Salient point: the Guru and I did not do this.

Hapa and pilot

Instead, the Guru and I snorkeled. Twice. Once at each dive spot. We saw sea urchins thirty feet below us, clear water (ahem, SALT water). Fish came far closer. We saw several Hawaiian green sea turtles, only from the boat. The boat is named Hapa, which means half; the lovely captain did not know why it is named that. He’s the fellow cleaning up after our trip. Note clouds on the jagged eroding crater rim; it’s raining there, ¿no?

Watch “Chasing Coral”

HanaumaBay

“Chasing Coral” is the best documentary you will see in years. On Netflix now. Do it. I’ll wait.

Coral is a living animal creature. The whole thing is one creature. The small polyps and mouths are body parts of a living creature, not separate creatures.

This is Hanauma Bay. We went snorkeling there and saw lots of dead coral. When it’s only bleached, it is still alive—barely; it is white because the flesh that covers the white skeleton has died and broken away from the skeleton, but the inside portion is hanging on. If the coral becomes florescent, it is making one last chemical stand at staying alive. If it is covered in wispy algal strands it is dead dead. We saw plenty of the latter, one magnificent (in a bad way) bright purple coral, and many damaged corals, broken by careless tourists. I am trying to be upbeat….

Coral reefs are dying because the oceans are warming past their capacity to cope with the temperature change. Most of the warming of our atmosphere from burning fossil fuels…that heat “goes into” the ocean, and so elsewhere is being buffered by the temperature rises in the ocean waters.

Surfboard chips

Stab at upbeat. The shapes look like stone spear points to me, as well as surfboard outlines.

Early night

Pleasure to have the sun drop behind the ridge and the temperatures begin to drop.

Think about temperature change now. And check your calendar for a time window to watch “Chasing Coral.” Then watch it.

End of preaching. Thank you for your patience.

Odd bits

Commuter train

Elevated commuter train construction underway. The current discussion is about what amount the fare should be.

Tunnel view

Crossed the old wall of an ancient volcanic crater, pierced by a pair of tunnels. This is the view out the other side from the second one.

Showershoe hoops

We stopped at a small, out-of-the-way, neighborhood park. The young man in the red shirt is shooting hoops while wearing shower shoes. Tough!

It is customary for large groups relocate to the park for the day on this island. Many have large, elaborate tent and chair and table and more set-ups. Note the kiddie pool under the tent-roof included in these peoples’ Saturday temporary village.

Mystery red bird

Meanwhile…on the other side of the park we spotted this colorful bird on the ?little-used? pitcher’s mound.

Surfboard fence

And behind the backstop on one side was the ocean, and the other a fence of spent surf boards. With a coconut palm overseeing all.

Surfer biker

Later, we found mister surfer-biker. Livin’ the good life.

Ocean view

There’s the ocean; there’s the infrastructure (foreground).

Banana field

Banana orchard. Wind farm infrastructure, far distance.

Ocean margin

I relent. Ocean, no infrastructure.

Sugar factory

No ocean; repurposed sugar mill/factory, now a mini-mall.

Dive boat

Dive boat returning to dock; fisherfolk; distant wind farm.

Infrastructure remodeling

Ocean, left; infrastructure mending, right.

Offshore islands

Ocean! Offshore islands! Minimal infrastructure.

Cone verb

No ocean. Language lesson: cone as a verb. We documented multiple usages, and all to do with orange ones, not ice cream ones.